I added some character to the copper by
adding scratch and dents. A mixture of Paynes
Gray and Burnt Sienna in a drybrush method
meaning little water. Also finished the lines going
around the boiler with Cobalt Blue in the back part
and another mixture of Cad Yellow and Cad Orange
around the lines.
The most important thing is to keep some of the areas
warm and light, this is what creates the copper feel.
adding scratch and dents. A mixture of Paynes
Gray and Burnt Sienna in a drybrush method
meaning little water. Also finished the lines going
around the boiler with Cobalt Blue in the back part
and another mixture of Cad Yellow and Cad Orange
around the lines.
The most important thing is to keep some of the areas
warm and light, this is what creates the copper feel.
Now I am ready for the lid. Again, I am starting with
underwashes of Yellow Ochre but saving the negative
areas. This is what makes watercolors so hard. You
really need to understand where you are going. You
never use white paint so you save the negative parts.
underwashes of Yellow Ochre but saving the negative
areas. This is what makes watercolors so hard. You
really need to understand where you are going. You
never use white paint so you save the negative parts.
I am slowly building color by adding more and
more Burnt Umber and Cad Orange. Notice
the wedge of reflected light that is created withThalo Blue and around these edges is Perm. Rose.
Next I needed to create the shadow areas. Going
over the darker areas with Paynes Gray and blue.
I simply keep repeating these color mixtures and
drying them until I reach the intensity I want.
I think you can click over the painting several
times to enlarge it so you can really see what I am doing.